SHOWING YOUR BOXER

ABOUT SHOWING

Showing can be a very addictive hobby, very expensive and very time consuming, but once you start you can very rarely stop, it is such a great feeling winning your first rosette that your adrenalin just goes into overdrive and you just want more. Unfortunately showing is like a roller coaster one week you will win everything and the next you may take home nothing (except the best dogs in the world of course). Don’t forget that not every judge thinks the same, the dogs are judged on the way that the appointed judge will see his ideal boxer and what he/she thinks fit closest to the standard, also the dogs performance on the day (dogs do have off days same as us humans). You have to be a good loser to be in the dog showing hobby, many a time we see exhibitors walk out of the ring saying that the dog shouldn’t of won because it has ‘that’ wrong with it or ‘this’ wrong with it, you are entering a show under a Judge for his/her opinion and you should respect that, if he doesn’t place you for what ever reason just do not enter under him/her anymore and keep your opinions to yourself, you will be much more respected in the long run. Don't forget NO dog is perfect, every dog has it's faults, if there was the perfect dog then there would not be any dog shows.


In the UK there are four types of dog shows, Companion, Limit, Open and Championship Shows;

COMPANION SHOWS are usually charity events or fund raising events they are open to pedigree dogs and non-pedigrees dogs, registered dogs and non-registered dogs, you can usually enter on the day and these shows are ideal for the beginner/newcomer to the show world, most of us started off by attending these shows and it is a good place to practice.

LIMIT SHOWS are run by individual dog clubs, and are restricted to the members of that club. These shows are probably the best place to start your showing career as you will be given a lot of help and advice without the pressures of the larger, more competitive shows. The classes at these shows are quite small making it an ideal place to start.

OPEN SHOWS These shows have a broader range of classes and tend to be more competitive. In some classes you will be up against dogs of other breeds. Open Shows can also be purely for one specific breed. The top prize at this is The Best in Show, which is judged from the Best of Breed. The Best in Breed is the best dog and bitch of that one breed. You can now also gain a Show Certificate of Merit award issued by the kennel club for open show wins, to gain this award you must have 25 points in total, you win 1 point for Best of Breed, Group placing of 5 or more points (4 points for 1st in the Group, 3 for 2nd, 2 for 2nd and 1 point for a 4th placing) you can also win 5 points for a Best in Show win. Believe me this is not easy but if you are lucky enough to achieve it then the dog can have the initials ShCm at the end of his/her show name, this can be put on his/her pedigree and also after the name in a show catalogue.

CHAMPIONSHIP SHOWS These shows can be breed specific, group specific, for example gundogs, working etc, or for all breeds. These shows offer the widest range of classes and winning at these can gain the ultimate award of qualifying for Crufts, the most prestigious dog show in Britain.
The dogs that win each class compete for Challenge Certificates (C.C.’s), dogs and bitches separately. Once you have three C.C.’s from three separate judges your dog is made up to a Champion. After the C.C’s have been awarded the Best of Breed winners from each group (gundogs, working, hounds etc) are judged to find Best of Group. These are then judged for Best in Show. The dog declared the Best in Show has competed and is unbeaten by any other dog exhibited at the same show.
The results of all these shows are usually available on the day from the show secretary, they are also published in the dog papers such as Dog World and Our Dogs. Some judges will write a critique of the first 2 or 3 placings, this can help you to know what they saw as the good and bad points of the dogs judged on the day. The only drawback on the critique is that sometimes you have to wait quite a few weeks before it is published, if at all.
The other award that can be obtained is a Junior Warrant, which is based on a points system. These points can only be obtained by placings at Open and Championship shows. The points have to add up to 25 and must be collected in the dogs first year of showing, the dog will then be 18 months old.
The larger Open and Championship shows can be benched or unbenched. Benched means that on entering the show the dogs are allocated an open cage where it has to be left when not being shown. Unbenched shows have no facilities for leaving your dog unattended so they can stay with their owner or handler at all times.
The classes that can be entered at dog shows are dependant upon age, number of first places and C.C.’s won.

CLASS DEFINITIONS

MINOR PUPPY-For dogs of six and not exceeding nine calendar months of age on the first day of the show.
PUPPY -For dogs of six and not exceeding twelve calendar months of age on the first day of the show.
JUNIOR-For dogs of six and not exceeding eighteen calendar months of age on the first day of the show.
SPECIAL YEARLING- For dogs of six and not exceeding twenty four months of age on the first day of the show.
MAIDEN-For dogs which have not won a Challenge Certificate or a first prize at an Open or Championship Show (Minor puppy, Special Minor Puppy, Puppy and Special Puppy classes excepted, whether restricted or not).
NOVICE -For dogs which have not won a Challenge Certificate or three or more first prizes at Open and Championship Shows (Minor puppy, Special Minor Puppy, Puppy and Special Puppy classes excepted, whether restricted or not).
UNDERGRADUATE -For dogs which have not won a Challenge Certificate or three or more first prizes at Championship Shows (Minor puppy, Special Minor Puppy, Puppy and Special Puppy classes excepted, whether restricted or not).
GRADUATE-For dogs which have not won a Challenge Certificate or four or more first prizes at Championship Shows in Graduate, Post Graduate, Minor Limit, Mid Limit, Limit and Open Classes, whether restricted or not.
POST GRADUATE-For dogs which have not won a Challenge Certificate or five or more first prizes at Championship Shows in Post Graduate, Minor Limit, Mid Limit, Limit and Open Classes, whether restricted or not.
MID-LIMIT-For dogs which have not won three Challenge Certificates or five or more first prizes in all at Championship Shows in Mid Limit, Limit and open classes, confined to the breed, whether restricted or not, at shows where Challenge Certificates were offered for the breed.
LIMIT-For dogs which have not won three Challenge Certificates under three different judges or seven or more first prizes in all, at Championship Shows in Limit and Open classes, confined to the breed, whether restricted or not, at shows where Challenge Certificates were offered for the breed.
OPEN-For all dogs of the breed for which the class is provided and eligible for entry at the show.
VETERAN-For dogs of seven years of age and over on the first day of the show.
ANY VARIETY NOT SEARATELY CLASSIFIED (AVNSC) -For breeds of dogs for which no separate classes are scheduled
IMPORTED REGISTER-Where an Interim Breed Standard has been approved by the Kennel Club, breeds whose registration is confined to the Imported Register may be exhibited in this class only and are ineligible for any other competition whatsoever.

TO VIEW THE UK BOXER BREED STANDARD CLICK HERE

BASIC SHOW TRAINING

PREPARATION

Before you enter a show you and your puppy must be well schooled, you must have been to training classes and you must know what is expected from you, and your boxer when you get into the show ring. You must have a kennel club registered puppy to enter Limit, Open or Championship shows with, and you must have filled a schedule in correctly and sent it in appropriate time before the closing date, you will be able to get show schedules from your local ring craft trining class, or if you order OUR DOGS or DOG WORLD newspaper from your local newsagents then there is a list of shows at the back that are coming up.
Some shows have on offer 1st – 5th places and if you are lucky enough to get placed then you will receive a prize card stating from which show you received the award, what date, and where you was placed, you could also get a rosette and sometimes cups, shields and trophies are on offer.
Show days can be quiet stressful, we usually get our show bag ready the night before a show, in our show bag contains the following;

SCISSORS- For trimming whiskers and any long hairs that spoil the outline
GROOMING BRUSH-We use a soft bristle brush
GROOMING MIT-We use a velvet mitt to add shine to the coat after a soft brush over.
NAPPY BAGS-Always keep them with you just incase your dog has an accident.
WATER BOWL-Good idea also to take a bottle of water.
BENCHING CHAINS-Used to bench your dogs at most Championship Shows.
SHOW LEADS- We use thin choke chains and a thin leather lead.
PAW WAX-Great if you have to show on a slippery surface, just rub it on the dogs pads.
BAIT-We use liver or sausages.
PACK-UP-It can be a long day so take a pack-up and a flask.

Our dogs are all bathed and groomed the night before a show, all our show passes (which you usually get sent from Championship shows) are at hand along with directions on how to get there. We also take a change of clothes if we are at a Championship show, a nice smart outfit will not go a miss and can make a good impression on the judge, also preferably something that contrasts with your dog, if you have a dark brindle dog then you shouldn’t wear black, mainly because when you are setting your dog up it could be hard for the judge to assess the outline, whereas if you wore a lighter colour it would make the outline more prominent to the eye. If you are at a show that is quiet a distance to travel then it is always wise to stay over, there are plenty of motels nowadays that cater for dogs so no need to leave them alone in the car and you won't be too tired when you are at the show.

We start training our boxer puppies at about 6 weeks old, they are set up on a table and then we either bait them with liver, cheese or sausages to mainly get their attention, or we just throw a toy, you will find that they come up on their toes and sometimes stay in the show pose for a few moments, we don’t do this too often as puppies soon get bored and the last thing that you want is a puppy getting bored at this age. Showing should be lots of fun so if your puppy stands correctly then give him lots of praise, do this for a few minutes a day, main rule is not to over do it. There are lots of different ways that you can show your boxer, BAITING is attracting his attention with feeding him food, you shouldn’t be shoving piles of liver in his mouth but just trying to entice him with it so you can set him up in the show pose. BASIC SHOW POSE is achived by throwing a toy and getting your puppy to fix his eyes upon it without bolting and dragging you with him. FREE STANDING is pretty much doing the above but your dog sets himself up (takes a lot of practise but looks good).STRINGING you have to be a pretty much perfect handler to get your dog looking good whilst doing this, it takes years of practise to get it right and if you do not get it spot on then your dog could look like a rocking horse. Our favourite is the basic show pose, I do prefare not to bait but it really does depend on the animal I am showing and how to get the best out of him. See examples below;

BAITING

BASIC SHOW POSE

FREE STANDING

STRINGING

AT THE SHOW

Once all the ground work has been done and the day has come of your show, make sure that you set off in plenty of time; there is nothing worse then getting to a show and finding out that you are in the next class. Your dog must be settled and you should also should be calm, nerves have a tendency to run down the lead unfortunately. At most shows apart from Championship shows there will not be any benches to put your dog on, it is wise to take a dog crate with you, you can, (if your lucky) get set up right near the ringside, you will then know at what stage the judging is and when your class is approaching to get your puppy ready and to wait for your number to be called. Once it is your turn you will enter the ring and should set your puppy up so that the judge can have a first look at your dog, there will be more exhibitors in the same class and they all usually set their dogs up in a row, the judge will walk down the line and firstly have a good look at all the profiles of the dogs then he will move to the front and look at their heads. Each exhibitor takes it in turns to set their dog up individually and the judge will then have a closer examination of your dog, the judge will look again at his profile then he will do a hands on examination, he will then look at his head and also in his mouth to see if it is correct, he will then have one more glance at your dogs profile and then will ask you to move, usually judges ask you to run in a triangle and then straight up and down, once you have done this you must stop in front of the judge to let him have one more quick look at your dog before you go to the end of the row you started from, another exhibitor will then start setting their dog up. Once all of the exhibitors have been seen you should set your dog up again and the judge will then have one more look at him by doing the same procedure as at the beginning of the class, he may even ask you to move you dog again. You must always make sure that you never take your eyes of the judge, if your dog is not looking right because he has moved and the judge then suddenly looks your way then this could cost you a place, this will come with practice as you really need one eye on the judge and one on your dog, easier said then done but believe me it will come with time. The judge will have by this time made his decision and will call each dog into the center of the ring by placing his 1st, 2nd etc; if you have won a placing then congratulations! You will treasure it forever. Your journey of dog showing has just begun.

CRUFTS QUALIFICATIONS

1. A DOG UNDER 8 CALENDAR MONTHS OF AGE ON THE FIRST DAY OF THE SHOW IS NOT ELIGIBLE FOR ENTRY AT THIS SHOW UNLESS IT HAS QUALIFIED FOR ENTRY IN THE KENNEL CLUB STUD BOOK. N.B. A Puppy so qualified which is between 6 and 8 months of age is not eligible for entry in Special Puppy or Special Junior.

2. THE FOLLOWING ARE THE QUALIFICATIONS A DOG MUST HAVE FOR ENTRY AT CRUFTS :

A. ENTRY IN BREED CLASSES AT CRUFTS, WHERE CHALLENGE CERTIFICATES ARE OFFERED.

A dog is eligible for entry in breed classes where Challenge Certificates are offered if it has qualified in any of the following ways under the Rules and Regulations of the Kennel Club:

(1) If it is a Champion, Show Champion, Field Trial Champion, Working Trial Champion, Obedience Champion or Agility Champion under the Rules of the Kennel Club.

(2) If it is entered in the Kennel Club Stud Book, or qualifies for entry in the Kennel Club Stud Book by 8 January 2xxx.

(3) If it is entered in the Kennel Club Stud Book, or qualifies for entry in the Kennel Club Stud Book by 8 January 2xxx through Field Trials or Working Trials.

(4) If it has won any of the following prizes in a breed class (as defined in Kennel Club Regulations for the Definitions of Classes at Championship Shows) at a Championship Show, including Crufts, where Challenge Certificates were offered for the breed between 6 January 2xxx and 8 January 2xxx.

i. First, Second or Third in Minor Puppy Class

ii. First, Second or Third in Puppy Class

iii. First, Second or Third in Junior Class

iv. First, Second or Third in Yearling Class (For Breeds in Stud Book Band E only � see list below)

v. First, Second or Third in Post Graduate Class

vi. First, Second or Third in Limit Class

vii. First, Second or Third in Open Class

viii. First, Second or Third in Veteran Class

STUD BOOK BAND E

Hound Group � Afghan Hound, Whippet

Gundog Group � Irish Setter, Retriever (Flat Coated), Retriever (Golden), Retriever (Labrador), Spaniel (Cocker)

Terrier Group � Staffordshire Bull Terrier

Utility Group �

Pastoral Group � Bearded Collie, Border Collie, Shetland Sheepdog

Working Group � Boxer, Dobermann, Great Dane, Rottweiler

Toy Group � Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

(5) If it has won a First Prize in any breed class at Crufts 2xxx. (NB. This is in addition to those dogs which have qualified in classes listed under 2 a (4) above).

(6) If it has been awarded a 5-point or higher Green Star at a Show held under the Rules and Regulations of the Irish Kennel Club.

(7) If a Beagle, has won a First Prize at a Hound Show between 6 January 2xxx and 8 January 2xxx held under the Rules and Regulations of the Masters of Harriers and Beagles Association.

(8) Premier Open Show

For dogs that have been declared best of breed provided there were more than three breed classes (more than five classes for Stud Book Band E breeds) scheduled for the breed between 6 January 2xxx and 8 January 2xxx.

(9) If it has won Best in Show, Reserve Best in Show or Best Puppy in Show at a General or Group Open Show between 6 January 2xxx and 8 January 2xxx.

B. ENTRY IN BREED CLASSES AT CRUFTS 2007 FOR BASSET FAUVE DE BRETAGNE, GLEN OF IMAAL, PORTUGUESE WATER DOG AND AUSTRALIAN CATTLE DOG AND WHERE CHALLENGE CERTIFICATES ARE NOT OFFERED.

A dog is eligible for entry in breed classes where Challenge Certificates are not offered if it has qualified in any of the following ways under the Rules and Regulations of the Kennel Club.

(1) If it has been declared Best of Sex or Reserve Best of Sex of a Breed or gained any of the following Prizes in Breed or Variety Classes at a Championship Show, including Crufts between 6 January 2xxx and 8 January 2xxx.

i. First, Second or Third in Minor Puppy Class
ii. First, Second or Third in Puppy Class
iii. First, Second or Third in Junior Class
iv. First, Second or Third in Post Graduate Class
v. First, Second or Third in Limit Class
vi. First, Second or Third in Open Class
vii. First, Second or Third in Veteran Class

(See note 2.)

(2) If it has won a First Prize in any breed class at Crufts 2xxx. (NB. This is in addition to those dogs which have qualified in classes listed under 2 b (1) above).

(3) If it has been awarded a 5-point or higher Green Star at a Show held under the Rules and Regulations of the Irish Kennel Club.

(4) Premier Open Show
For dogs that have been declared best of breed provided there were more than three breed classes (more than five classes for Stud Book Band E breeds) scheduled for the breed.

(5) If it has won Best in Show, Reserve Best in Show or Best Puppy in Show at a General or Group Open Show held between 6 January 2xxx and 8 January 2xxx.

C. ENTRY IN FIELD TRIAL CLASSES AT CRUFTS 2xxx

A dog is eligible for entry in Field Trial classes for its Breed if it has at any time won an award, a Diploma of merit or a Certificate of Merit in actual competition at a Field Trial held under Kennel Club or Irish Kennel Club Regulations.

D. ENTRY IN SPECIAL WORKING GUNDOG CLASS AT CRUFTS 2xxx

A dog is eligible for entry in Special Working Gundog classes for its Breed if it has at any time been awarded a Kennel Club Show Gundog Working certificate or won an award, Diploma of Merit or Certificate of Merit in competition at a Field Trial held under the rules of any governing body recognised by the Kennel Club

E. ENTRY IN SPECIAL WORKING TRIAL CLASSES AT CRUFTS 2xxx

With the exception of Bloodhounds, a dog is eligible for entry in Working Trial Classes for its Breed if it has gained a qualification not lower than UD Excellent under Kennel Club Working Trial Regulations. A Bloodhound is eligible for entry in Working Trial classes if it has won a prize at a Working Trial for Bloodhounds held under Kennel Club Working Trial Regulations.

F. OBEDIENCE CHAMPIONSHIPS AT CRUFTS 2xxx

A dog is eligible for entry if it has won a Kennel Club Obedience Certificate at a Show held between 6 January 2xxx and 8 January 2xxx.

G. AGILITY CHAMPIONSHIPS AT CRUFTS 2xxx

A dog is eligible for entry if it has won a Kennel Club Agility Certificate (Large, Medium and Small dogs) at a show held between 6 January 2xxx and 8 January 2xxx.

H. QUALIFIED DOGS TOO YOUNG TO COMPETE THE PREVIOUS YEAR

A dog which gained a qualifying award prior to 6 January 2xxx but was under 8 months of age on 9 March 2xxx and, therefore, ineligible for competition at Crufts 2xxx, is eligible for Crufts 2xxx without further qualification.

I. OVERSEAS QUALIFICATIONS

The following qualifications refer to Kennel Club fully recognised breeds only.

(1) Any champion from a country with which the Kennel Club has a reciprocal agreement qualifies automatically if it is domiciled in the UK and is on the Kennel Club Breed Register.

(2) Any FCI International Champion

(3) Winners of Junior (Dog) and Junior (Bitch) classes, plus the Best Dog and the Best Bitch at specified Shows in each of the European countries entitled to take part in the UK PETS TRAVEL SCHEME. One show only nominated by the Kennel Club in the country concerned.

(4) Winners of Junior Dog and Junior Bitch classes plus CACIB Dog and CACIB Bitch at FCI World Winners Show 2xxx. Winners of Junior Dog, Junior Bitch, Veteran Dog, Veteran Bitch plus CACIB Dog and CACIB Bitch at European Winners Shows in 2xxx. This applies to dogs resident in countries entitled to take part in the UK PETS TRAVEL SCHEME.

(5) USA � Winners of Best of Breed, Best of Opposite, Awards of Merit and Best Bred by Exhibitor in the Classes at the AKC Invitational, January 2xxx and December 2xxx. Additionally, Best of Breed, Best of Opposite, Awards of Merit Winners (if offered) and Best Bred by Exhibitor (if offered), at one National Breed Speciality show per breed chosen by the Parent Breed Club and agreed by the AKC.

(6) CANADA � The top five dogs from each group according to the Dogs in Canada Top Show Dog point system, published in Dogs in Canada July issue.
Additionally, Best of Breed, Best of Opposite and Award of Merit Winners at the National Specialities agreed by the Canadian Kennel Club.

(7) AUSTRALIA � One Show has/will be nominated for 2xxx in each of the eight states: -
Winners of Junior (Dog) and Junior (Bitch) classes, plus the Best Dog and the Best Bitch to qualify at each show.

Australian Capital Territory (ACTCA) - June Amenities Championship Show
Western Australia (CAWA) - Western Classic
Queensland (CCCQ) - Brisbane Royal Show
Northern Territory (NACA) - Royal Darwin Show
New South Wales (RNSWCC) - Spring Fair Dog Show (Sunday only)
South Australia (SACA) - Pedigree Autumn International Championship Show
Tasmania (TCA) - Royal Hobart Show
Victoria (VCA) - Melbourne Royal Show

(8) JAPAN - Winners of Best King and Best Queen also Best Junior King and Best Junior Queen at FCI Asian International Championship Show 2xxx, Tokyo. Any FCI International Champion.

(9) NEW ZEALAND � Winners of Junior (Dog) and Junior (Bitch) Classes, plus the Best Dog and Best Bitch to qualify from the NZKC ProPlan National Show.

NOTES ON QUALIFICATIONS

1. A Breed Class is a class confined to one breed.

2. Awards as above qualify a dog for entry at Crufts 2xxx only if the class in which the award was gained was not made "Special" in any way, i.e. by age, colour, height, weight, coat, to members of a society, to breeders etc. An exception is made only in the case of Prize Winners in Special Puppy, Special Junior and Veteran at Crufts 2xxx. Wins in sweepstake classes do not qualify nor do wins in any classes other than those stated above.

3. Only dogs of 8 calendar months of age or over on 8 March 2xxx will be eligible for entry at Crufts 2xxx unless a Kennel Club Stud Book qualification has been obtained.

4. In any class scheduled at Crufts 2xxx for which an age limit appears in the definition the age is calculated to 8 March 2xxx.

5. No entries will be accepted "Not for Competition".

The ultimate achievement at a show is winning BEST IN SHOW, pictured below is the judge, me and the show manager with 'DIBRID HUSTLE 'N' BUSTLE' after doing just that. I never slept for days after we won this.

DOG SHOW DISEASE
A. You have the early symptoms (Stage I) if:

1. You think that any show within 300 miles is nearby.
2. You begin to enjoy getting up at 5 a.m. in the morning to walk and feed dogs.
3. It is fun to spend several hours a day grooming dogs.
4. You think you're being frugal if you spend less than £5,000 a year on shows.
5. You can't remember what it was like to have just one dog.
B. You definitely have the disease (Stage II) if:

1. Your most important factor when buying a car is how many crates you can fit in it.
2. When you look for a house, the first thing you think of is how many dogs you can kennel on the property.
3. Your dog food bill is higher than your family's.
4. You spend as much on vets fees as on prescriptions.
5. You have no money because of showing dogs.
6. You have to buy more than one vehicle a year, because you keep burning out the year or 70,000-mile warranty going to shows.
7. You have more pictures of the dogs than of your family.
8. Your idea of a fun vacation is to hit a show circuit.
9. Most of your conversations revolve around the dogs.
C. You are a terminal case (Stage III) if:

1. You wake up in the morning and find out that you put the kids in the crates and the dogs in the beds last night.
2. You know each dog's name and pedigree, but can't figure out who that stranger in the house is; it turns out to be your husband/wife.
3. Your neighbours keep insisting that those kids running around your house bothering the dogs are yours.
4. You keep telling the kids to "heel" and can't understand why they won't, and why they keep objecting to the choke collar.
5. You cash in the kid's college trust fund to campaign the dogs.
6. You've been on the road showing dogs so long that you can't remember where you live.
7. Your family tells you "It's either the dogs or us"; you choose the dogs.
Do you have this dreaded disease?

Well, there is hope. In the course of our research, we have found that most cases seem to stop at Stage II, and remain chronic. We, with great difficulty, managed to acquire several Stage III ACOS patients. They are currently in our isolation wards, where we are studying them to gain a better understanding of this disease. It is a sad sight, seeing these formerly vibrant people as they shuffle around their rooms in endless triangle or L-patterns, making odd hand motions (as if holding a lead and baiting a dog), and making chirping noises. Merely saying the word "Crufts" can send them into an uncontrollable frenzy. Unfortunately, there isn't much hope for these cases, but with time and research to further understand this disease; we hope to come up with a cure. We are now attempting to isolate the causative agent, and may be able to develop a vaccine in the future. An interesting sidelight of this disease seems to be that exposure at an early age has an immunizing effect. Several people afflicted with ACOS at Stage II and Stage III have close family members (children, husbands, wives who have absolutely no disease.) It is thought by some of our researchers that this may be due to environmental effects, to an aggregated immune function, or to the fact that those at these stages of the disease tend not to associate with their close family members possibly due to the memory deficit induced by the disease - that is, in that they don't remember that they have close family members! What can you do to prevent this disease? Until a cure is found, prevention is the measure. Avoid kennels advertising "show stock," since it may be that dogs are carriers of the disease. Leave town on those days that the local newspapers inform you of a show in the area. If you inadvertently come into contact with an ACOS-afflicted person, leave as soon as possible (they do tend to cling), and thoroughly shower, preferably with germicidal soap. If you are living with an ACOS-afflicted person, take comfort that, if you haven't succumbed yet, you are probably safe.... IT IS VERY INFECTIOUS!!........

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